A 1797 Open Robe from Patterns of Fashion

       

       

Open Robe History

The open robe was a style which had been developing for hundreds of years. The Robe A L'Anglais was the predominant style in the late 18th Century, and as the neoclassical stlyes began to take over, with the dawning of revolutionary ideas throughout Europe, it evolved with them. This robe usually followed the cut of its predecessor, with the pleats of the bodice flowing down into the skirt.

The fabrics also initially followed the fashions of the rococo age, with silk patterned brocades of earlier gowns being altered to fit the new fashions. However, with the importation of new cheap cotton, the robes started to be made in printed muslin for day wear, as can be seen in the inspiration fashion plate. This is an often overlooked fact in fashion history, and many believe the high-waisted open robe to have been for evening wear alone.

My Open Robe

I decided to use the open robe pattern in Patterns of Fashion 1. It is taken from an extant garment at the V&A, however this garment was silk and probably for evening wear.

The fabric I used was a floral cotton print I found which flows beautifully. This works paricularly well with the pleated back of the garment. I lined it in plain white poplin, so the bodice would keep the soft flowing lines of the skirt.

I wear this open robe over my off-white cotton gown and all my regency underwear. When worn over the small bustle pad, the pleats flow particularly well. A fishu is also worn to fill in the neck line and is puffed out in a style which still reflected the gowns of the 1780s.

Pictures